ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
HIGHLAND RAPE
A/W 1995-6
Breasts on show, low crotches, torn clothes, flesh flashing in every direction. This could only be a recipe for one of the most controversial catwalk shows. And controversial it was, as Alexander McQueen’s Highland Rape collection strutted its way down the catwalk in 1995, a year when people didn’t go out in just bandeau's and hot pants.
During our seminar we discussed this collection, many of my peers shocked me with their views towards the flesh on show and title ‘Highland Rape’ to them this was offencive, as if the show was mocking rape. The catwalk scattered with leaves set the grim mise-en-scene as models not only walked or grimaced down the catwalk, but played a part, acted out a character. This, shock factor quickly became a trademark for McQueen shows, that and his amazing showman ship.
To many the word rape creates images of violence, malice, forcefulness and unwilling, it’s easy to see how the clothes presented to us in this show are tormenting the rape idea. The torn tops suggest violence and fearfulness, the short, or should I say extra short, hemlines of the dresses look as if someone has slashed them from the women, as if the women whom the models are portraying are vulnerable and delicate.
What many didn’t realise when making these judgements and assumptions is that ‘Highland Rape’ as a title is much more than the violence and force we associate with the word, it represents the invasion of Scotland by the British, the way Britain invaded the Scottish people, who evidently lived in the ‘highlands’, The tartan worn by some of the shows characters give us a slight clue to this. In my opinion I see this as art only using fashion to present the idea to its audience, in the same way an advertising campaign or painter would do.
‘[With bumsters] I wanted to elongate the body, not just show the bum. To me, that part of the body- not so much the buttocks, but the bottom of the spine- that’s the most erotic part of anyone’s body, man or women’ (Alexander McQueen, Savage Beauty, 2011)
I couldn’t agree more, the body is a work of art and McQueen recognised this, he created garments based upon the silhouette. When it came to his shows he used shock tactics to communicate current issues and ideas, playing out the scenes and emotions he wished the audience to experience. Even now I believe people are uptight about nudity and the body, maybe this is due to it being exhibited wrongfully. We see life drawings and nude paintings as a work of art, yet when someone like McQueen shows a breast here and a peek of the nipple there, outrage, debate and discussion sparks.
The kilt and tartan as we all know is traditional Scottish dress, Could McQueen not be trying to convey another meaning, suggesting how we take the prints from cultures and ‘rape’ them, in other words we use items, symbols and prints from other cultures we do not know enough about. Do we use them wrongfully or inappropriately, or with the wrong meanings?
McQueen whose background comes from working with Savile Row tailors; Anderson & Sheppard shines through his designs, his perfectly composed garments and avent garde styles not only break many conventions, but use innovation and imagination.
Above some of McQueen's outstanding designs & shows
Its devastating such a talented person like McQueen has died, his label will live on and show the world what he brought into this world for all to enjoy. He is an ispiration to me and many more thousands of people all around the world.
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